Exterior Work

1. Disconnect the sump pump hose. Most newer houses have systems to move water away from the foundation, and they may involve a hose running from an exterior wall. When snowed under, that hose will fill with ice, causing the sump pump to run in vain and burn out, which could lead to a flooded basement. Replace the hose with a plastic pipe about eight feet long, and raise it to drain above the snow. We have been replacing the sump pump hose that can be easily picked up from Home Depot for $20.

2. Clean the gutters. Snow can melt off a roof on a mild winter day. If you have water that can't get out of the gutter because leaves are blocking it, it'll freeze. To prevent that, a blower inserted at the end of the downspout should send leaves back out the top. That's the easy part. After that you will have to manually remove the debris by hand. Avoid spraying with water, as it could lead to clogs in those freshly cleared downspouts. If your gutters are too high to reach, call a professional.  A cleaning will run about $200 for the average home.

3. Trim overhanging branches. This will help keep those leaves from getting into the gutters in the first place, or from dumping an extra load of snow onto the roof. Tree branches should be cut back about a foot from the house.

4. Drain the garden hose and shut off the valves. Disconnect the garden hose and let the water run out. If the tap is not part of a frost-proof hose bib, go inside and turn off the valve that feeds it, then go back out and open the tap to drain. Miss this step and it can easily freeze all the way back inside of the house and split the pipe.

5. Secure handrails and stair treads.  In the winter, you're much more likely to grab a handrail. Make sure they're stable. To deal with slippery exterior steps, install rubber treads, attaching them to the stairs with screws.

Inside jobs

6. Seal drafts. If you can see daylight around the exterior door, that's obviously an air gap. It can be easily fixed with weather stripping.

Other gaps might be invisible, such as those around attic hatches (use weather stripping here, too) and electrical receptacles. For the latter, remove the plate and install a foam gasket behind it. Caulking between the box and drywall will also block drafts.

7. Inspect the fireplace. Wood-burning stoves are less common in modern homes. Anyone still using them, however, should have them inspected. Also, consider burning dry birch or pine, rather than poplar, which can speed the build up of creosote, the cause of chimney fires. In any case, get it cleaned every autumn.

8. Inspect the furnace. If you have a high-efficiency unit, open the panel and inspect for rust or water. Either indicates the need for a pro, since the furnace should be capable of draining the moisture that it collects from the heat exchanger on the exhaust. If the interior is dry, vacuum out any dust. Change the filter which is recommended once every 3 months and make sure to use the correct filter size. 

9. Adjust the humidifier. If you turned it off for the summer, it's time to turn it on again – but not too much. "The best you can hope for is maybe 30% humidity in the winter. Above that, you risk frost on the windows that can turn into water on the walls, and that can lead to mold. Make sure the water panel evaporator (that wire-mesh piece inside) is free of calcium residue left by hard water.

10. Test the detectors. With the furnace firing up regularly, fall is the time to check the status of detectors for smoke and carbon monoxide, a poisonous byproduct of gas-burning appliances that is normally exhausted outdoors.

If these detectors aren't wired into your electrical system, change the batteries and test the alarms. Replace them before they're 10 years old. Then rest through those cold winter nights with peace of mind – and start looking forward to spring.